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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s best restaurants, one might foresee familiar high-end establishments. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of northern London.

An Surprise Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can cost significantly more than that price.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader importance of this gastronomic honour.